Discovering Paradise
Discovering Paradise
The complete guide to Dominican rum and cigar culture — Brugal, Barcelo, and Bermudez distillery tours, cigar factory visits in Santiago and Tamboril, mamajuana recipes, duty-free limits, and tasting tips.
The Dominican Republic produces two things better than almost anywhere else in the world: rum and cigars. The rum tradition stretches back centuries to the sugar plantations that defined the island's economy, and the cigar industry — centered in the lush Cibao Valley around Santiago — has made the DR the largest cigar exporter on the planet, surpassing even Cuba in volume. Together, they form a cultural pairing as fundamental to Dominican identity as merengue and baseball.
This guide takes you behind the scenes — into the distilleries where molasses becomes golden rum, into the fabricas (factories) where skilled torcedores (rollers) hand-craft cigars leaf by leaf, and into the colmados and terrazas where Dominicans enjoy both with friends, loud music, and zero pretension.
Rum is not a drink in the Dominican Republic — it is a social ritual. A bottle of Brugal on the table means friends are gathering. A glass of Barcelo Imperial means someone is celebrating. Ron (rum) is present at every Dominican gathering: baptisms, funerals, domino games, beach days, random Tuesday evenings. The phrase "vamos a pegarnos unos palos" (let's hit some drinks) is the unofficial national invitation.
Dominican rum is made from sugarcane molasses (not fresh sugarcane juice, which is the French Caribbean rhum agricole style). It is typically aged in American white oak bourbon barrels, resulting in a smooth, slightly sweet profile that is more accessible than Jamaican funk or Guyanese heaviness. The best Dominican rums emphasize balance: oak, vanilla, caramel, and a dry finish that invites another sip.
The standard Dominican way to drink rum: with Coca-Cola and ice (a "Cuba Libre," though Dominicans just call it "ron con Coca"). Premium aged rums are sipped neat or with a single ice cube. The tourist cocktail is the mojito or pina colada, but if you want to drink like a local, order a "servicio" — a bottle of rum served with a bucket of ice, Coca-Cola, and glasses for the table. A servicio of Brugal Extra Viejo at a colmado costs RD$800-1,200 (US$14-20). At a nightclub, the same bottle is RD$2,500-4,000 (US$42-68).
Founded in 1888 in Puerto Plata by Andres Brugal Montaner, a Cuban immigrant. Brugal is the best-selling rum in the DR and the most recognized internationally. The range runs from Brugal Blanco (white, for mixing, RD$300/US$5) through Brugal Extra Viejo (aged 3-8 years, the colmado standard, RD$600/US$10) to Brugal 1888 (double-aged in sherry and bourbon casks, excellent for sipping, RD$2,000/US$34) and Brugal Papa Andres (limited edition, ultra-premium, RD$8,000+/US$135+). Brugal's style leans drier than Barcelo — less sweet, more oak-forward.
Founded in 1930 in San Pedro de Macoris and now based in Santo Domingo. Barcelo is Brugal's eternal rival — and the debate over which is better divides Dominican households as sharply as Licey vs. Aguilas. Barcelo's style is slightly sweeter and smoother than Brugal. The range: Barcelo Dorado (gold, for mixing, RD$280/US$4.75), Barcelo Anejo (the everyday sipper, RD$500/US$8.50), Barcelo Imperial (aged 10 years, a superb sipping rum, RD$1,200/US$20), and Barcelo Imperial Premium Blend (30-year aged blend, gift-worthy, RD$4,500/US$76).
The oldest rum producer in the DR, founded in 1852 in Santiago. Bermudez is less internationally known than Brugal or Barcelo but is deeply respected domestically. Their Bermudez Don Armando Anejo is a smooth, well-balanced sipper at a modest price (RD$700/US$12). Bermudez also produces mamajuana pre-mixed bottles that are popular tourist souvenirs.
The most popular rum tour in the DR. Located on the main road into Puerto Plata, the Brugal visitor center offers a 30-45 minute guided tour through the bottling facility (not the full distillation process, which happens at a separate plant). You learn the history, see the production line, and finish with a tasting of 3-4 Brugal expressions. The tour is free, and the gift shop sells bottles at competitive prices. Tours run Monday through Friday, 9 AM to 12 PM and 2 PM to 5 PM. No reservation needed for small groups.
Ron Barcelo operates a modern tasting experience at their headquarters in Santo Domingo. The "Barcelo Rum Tour" (approximately US$25-40 per person) includes an immersive multimedia presentation on rum production, a guided tasting of the full Barcelo range (including limited editions not available in stores), and a cocktail workshop. It is more polished and educational than the Brugal tour. Book through their website or your hotel concierge.
The Bermudez facility in Santiago offers tours by appointment. Contact them directly through their website or by calling ahead. The tour includes the aging warehouse (rows of oak barrels in the warm Dominican air) and a tasting. Less tourist-oriented than Brugal or Barcelo, which means a more authentic, less rehearsed experience.
The Dominican Republic is the world's largest exporter of premium hand-rolled cigars, producing over 400 million cigars annually. The industry is centered in the Cibao Valley, particularly around Santiago and the town of Tamboril (15 minutes north of Santiago), where the rich red soil and humid climate create ideal conditions for growing cigar tobacco.
Dominican cigar tobacco has a distinct profile: medium-bodied, smooth, with notes of cedar, cream, nuts, and a natural sweetness that makes Dominican cigars more approachable than the powerful Nicaraguan or intense Cuban styles. The best Dominican cigars use a blend of Dominican filler tobacco wrapped in Connecticut shade, Ecuadorian Habano, or Cameroon wrappers — combinations that produce complexity without harshness.
The industry employs over 100,000 Dominicans, from the vegueros (tobacco farmers) in the fields to the torcedores (rollers) in the factories to the packers, quality inspectors, and shipping coordinators. A skilled torcedor can roll 200-300 cigars per day, each one shaped, pressed, and wrapped by hand — a craft that takes 2-3 years to master.
Founded in 1903, La Aurora is the oldest cigar factory in the Dominican Republic and a national institution. Their factory in Santiago offers guided tours (approximately US$10-15 per person, Monday-Friday, by appointment) that walk you through every step: fermentation rooms where tobacco leaves age for 12-18 months, the rolling floor where 300+ torcedores work in rows, the quality control room, and the aging vault. The tour ends in the company store, where you can buy factory-fresh cigars at prices 20-40% below retail. The La Aurora Preferidos and La Aurora 107 are their flagship lines.
The largest cigar factory in the world. Owned by Altadis, this facility near La Romana produces brands including Montecristo, Romeo y Julieta, H. Upmann, and other famous names. Tours are available but less frequent than La Aurora — inquire through your hotel or contact the factory directly. The scale is staggering: over 5,000 employees producing millions of cigars annually.
The small town of Tamboril, 15 minutes north of Santiago, is the epicenter of Dominican cigar manufacturing. Dozens of small and medium factories operate here, including La Flor Dominicana, Quesada Cigars, and numerous boutique operations. Some offer informal tours if you show up and ask politely — the culture is entrepreneurial and welcoming. A half-day in Tamboril, hopping between small factories, is one of the most authentic experiences in Dominican cigar culture.
Mamajuana is the Dominican Republic's unofficial national drink — a potent blend of rum, red wine, and honey infused with tree bark and herbs. It is sold at every tourist shop, but the real thing is homemade, sitting in glass bottles behind the counter of colmados and family kitchens across the island. Dominicans claim it cures everything from the common cold to low libido (the "Dominican Viagra" marketing is not subtle).
The base is a bottle filled with dried bark and herbs (you can buy the dry mix for RD$200-400/US$3.40-6.80). You add rum, red wine, and honey, let it steep for a week, and drink in small glasses. Each family has their own recipe and their own claims about its powers. The taste is herbal, sweet, and strong — somewhere between a spiced rum and an amaro. Most tourists either love it or grimace through a polite sip.
For tourists, the easiest way to try mamajuana is to order it at any bar or restaurant (RD$150-300/US$2.50-5 per glass). To bring it home, buy a pre-made bottle (RD$500-1,500/US$8.50-25 at tourist shops) or buy the dry bark mix and add your own rum and wine at home — the mix is legal to import into the US and EU.
Start with lighter, younger rums and work up to aged expressions:
If you are new to cigars, start mild and work up:
Pairing tip: A Barcelo Imperial with a La Aurora Preferidos Connecticut is an outstanding combination — the rum's sweetness balances the cigar's creaminess. Add a Dominican coffee (cafe de la loma) and you have the holy trinity of Dominican indulgence.
Yes. The most efficient route combines the Brugal distillery in Puerto Plata (north coast) with cigar factories in Santiago (1.5 hours south of Puerto Plata). Do Brugal in the morning, drive to Santiago for lunch and a La Aurora factory tour in the afternoon. Alternatively, base yourself in Santiago for 2-3 days to cover Bermudez distillery, La Aurora, and the Tamboril factory district without rushing. Add Santo Domingo for the Barcelo experience.
This is the debate that will never end. Objectively: Dominican cigars have won more blind-tasting awards in the last decade than Cuban cigars. The quality of Dominican tobacco, the craftsmanship of the torcedores, and the consistency of production are all world-class. Cuban cigars have historical mystique and a unique flavor profile from Cuban soil, but quality control issues and supply inconsistencies have hurt their reputation among serious cigar smokers. Many experts argue that Dominican brands like Arturo Fuente, La Flor Dominicana, and Davidoff now surpass their Cuban counterparts. Try both and decide for yourself.
Mamajuana is a traditional Dominican drink made by infusing rum and red wine with tree bark, herbs, and honey. It tastes like a sweet, herbal, potent digestif — something between an Italian amaro and a spiced rum. Dominicans attribute near-magical health and romantic properties to it. You should absolutely try it at least once — order a glass at any bar for RD$150-300 (US$2.50-5). Whether it lives up to its legendary reputation is a question best answered after your second glass.
This guide covers Puerto Plata. Explore more about this destination.
View DestinationOur team includes contributors who live in the Dominican Republic year-round and travel the island extensively, from Santo Domingo to remote southwest villages.