Discovering Paradise
Discovering Paradise
A tested day-by-day guide to spending a perfect long weekend in Santo Domingo — the Colonial Zone, the Malecón, museums, street food, nightlife, and a day trip to Boca Chica or Los Tres Ojos.
Most visitors to the Dominican Republic fly straight to Punta Cana and never see the capital. That is a mistake. Santo Domingo is a city of two million people pulsing with history, music, art, and some of the best food on the island. The Zona Colonial — a UNESCO World Heritage Site — is the oldest continuously inhabited European settlement in the Americas, founded in 1498. But Santo Domingo is not a museum. Walk three blocks from a 16th-century cathedral and you will find street art murals, craft cocktail bars, and Dominicans dancing bachata in the street at midnight.
Three days is the ideal amount of time. Long enough to absorb the Colonial Zone, explore the modern neighborhoods, taste the city's remarkable food scene, and take a half-day trip — without the fatigue that comes from cramming too much into too little time.
Santo Domingo is not a beach destination (though beaches are nearby). It is a culture destination — and one of the most underrated cities in the Caribbean. Here is what makes it worth your time:
Stay in or immediately adjacent to the Zona Colonial. Everything on this itinerary is within walking distance from there, and the neighborhood is safe, atmospheric, and connected to the rest of the city by Uber (which works reliably in Santo Domingo).
Island Life Hostel: The backpacker hub of the Zona Colonial. Private rooms and dorms available. The rooftop bar is the social center, and the staff organize walking tours and pub crawls. Great for solo travelers. Dorms from RD$1,200 (US$20); private rooms from RD$2,500 (US$42).
Hotel Discovery: Simple, clean, and quiet. Located on Calle Arzobispo Meriño, a short walk from Parque Colón. Air conditioning, decent Wi-Fi, and a small courtyard. Doubles from RD$2,800 (US$47).
Casas del XVI: A collection of restored 16th-century houses converted into boutique suites. Each casa is different — exposed stone walls, private courtyards, and antique furniture mixed with modern comforts. The most atmospheric accommodation in the city. Suites from US$120/night.
Hotel Billini: A stylish boutique hotel on Calle Padre Billini with a rooftop pool overlooking the Colonial Zone. The rooms are modern and well-designed. The restaurant and bar are popular with locals and guests alike. Doubles from US$95/night.
Hodelpa Nicolás de Ovando: Built in 1502 as the residence of the first governor of the Americas. Now a luxury hotel with a pool, excellent restaurant, and rooms that blend colonial architecture with modern luxury. The courtyard alone justifies the price. Doubles from US$180/night.
Theme: History, architecture, and getting your bearings
Start at Parque Colón, the main square dominated by a statue of Columbus and the shadow of the Catedral Primada de América — the oldest cathedral in the Americas, completed in 1540. Step inside to admire the Gothic-Renaissance interior, the mahogany altar, and the quiet coolness after the morning heat. Entry is free, though a RD$100 (US$1.70) donation is appreciated.
Walk south to the Alcázar de Colón (Diego Columbus's palace, now a museum) on Plaza de España. The museum contains period furniture, weapons, and art from the colonial era. Admission RD$100 (US$1.70). The plaza itself offers views over the Ozama River and is surrounded by restaurants that make an excellent lunch spot later.
Continue along Calle de las Damas — the oldest paved street in the Western Hemisphere, laid out in 1502. Along this elegant corridor you will pass the Panteón Nacional (a former Jesuit church now housing the remains of Dominican national heroes; free entry, solemn atmosphere), the Casa de Bastidas, and several colonial mansions now serving as galleries and cultural centers.
End the morning at Fortaleza Ozama, a defensive fortress built in 1502 that served as a military garrison and prison for centuries. Climb the Torre del Homenaje (Tower of Homage) for panoramic views of the river, the port, and the sprawling city beyond. Admission RD$70 (US$1.20).
Walk to Mesón de Bari on Calle Hostos — a no-frills Dominican comedor that has been feeding the neighborhood for decades. Order La Bandera Dominicana: white rice, red beans, stewed chicken (or beef), salad, and fried plantains. Total: under RD$350 (US$6). The garlic shrimp is a local secret — ask if it is available that day.
After lunch, explore the Zona Colonial's creative side. Walk along Calle Isabel La Católica and side streets to find an evolving gallery of street art and murals — many commissioned by the city's annual art festival. The Museo de las Casas Reales (Royal Houses Museum) on Calle de las Damas is worth an hour if you are interested in colonial-era artifacts, maps, and the story of the sugar trade. Admission RD$100 (US$1.70).
Stop at Lulú Tasting Bar on Calle Padre Billini for a late-afternoon cocktail. This tiny, beautifully designed bar serves craft cocktails using Dominican ingredients — mamajuana-infused spirits, passion fruit, tamarind — for RD$400-600 (US$7-10). It is a good place to sit, cool off, and watch the street life.
Dinner at Pat'e Palo Brasserie on Plaza de España — a European-style brasserie in a 16th-century building. The churrasco steak and the seafood risotto are reliable choices. Main courses RD$800-1,800 (US$14-30). Sit on the terrace for views of the Alcázar de Colón illuminated at night.
After dinner, walk to Calle Hostos and Calle El Conde for your first taste of Santo Domingo nightlife. On weekends, these streets fill with Dominicans socializing, street vendors selling empanadas, and music drifting from open doorways. La Alpargatería is a popular cocktail bar on Calle Hostos with good music and a young, mixed crowd.
Theme: Beyond the Colonial Zone — see how Santo Domingo lives today
Take an Uber (approximately RD$200/US$3.50) to Plaza de la Cultura in the Gazcue neighborhood. This cluster of museums and cultural institutions is Santo Domingo's intellectual heart. The Museo del Hombre Dominicano (Museum of Dominican Man) is the standout — excellent exhibits on Taíno civilization, the colonial era, and contemporary Dominican identity. Admission RD$100 (US$1.70).
If modern art interests you, the Museo de Arte Moderno next door has a good collection of Dominican contemporary art across four floors. Same admission price. Budget two hours for both museums.
Gazcue is a leafy residential neighborhood full of mid-century Dominican architecture and local restaurants. Adrian Tropical (multiple locations, but the Malecón branch is a Santo Domingo institution) serves excellent mofongo, sancocho, and fresh juices in an open-air setting overlooking the Caribbean. Main courses RD$400-900 (US$7-15). The portions are enormous — consider sharing.
Walk (or take a short Uber) to the Malecón — Santo Domingo's iconic waterfront avenue stretching 14 kilometers along the Caribbean coast. The Malecón is best experienced on foot for 2-3 kilometers between Parque Eugenio María de Hostos and the obelisk. You will pass monuments, open-air bars, and Dominicans fishing from the seawall.
From the Malecón, head to Piantini or Naco — Santo Domingo's modern commercial districts. These neighborhoods reveal the city's contemporary face: high-rise towers, shopping malls (Blue Mall is the most upscale), international restaurants, and a prosperous middle class. The contrast with the Zona Colonial is striking. Window-shop at Blue Mall (Avenida Winston Churchill) or explore the Agora Mall for local brands and a good food court.
Return to the Zona Colonial for dinner and a proper Santo Domingo night out. Start with dinner at Jalao on Calle El Conde — a lively Dominican restaurant and bar with live music most nights. The menu focuses on Dominican classics done well: chivo guisado (stewed goat), tostones rellenos, and grilled lobster. Main courses RD$600-1,500 (US$10-25). The atmosphere is festive and the mamajuana flows freely.
After dinner, the Zona Colonial comes alive. On weekends (Thursday through Saturday), the area around Calle Hostos, Calle Arzobispo Nouel, and Parque Duarte transforms into an open-air party. Key venues:
Theme: A morning excursion, then final exploration and shopping
Los Tres Ojos is a system of three open-air limestone caves containing crystal-clear freshwater lagoons, located just 15 minutes east of the Zona Colonial. It is one of the most photogenic sites near Santo Domingo and easily visited in 2-3 hours. Uber from the Zona Colonial: approximately RD$300 (US$5). Admission: RD$200 (US$3.50). A guide (tip: RD$200) will explain the geology and Taíno history. Bring a camera — the turquoise water inside the caves is extraordinary.
If you want a beach morning, Boca Chica is the closest option — a calm, shallow bay about 30 minutes east (Uber approximately RD$700/US$12). The beach is popular with Dominican families on weekends and has a festive, local atmosphere. Rent a lounger (RD$300/US$5), order fried fish and a Presidente from a beach vendor, and swim in the warm, shallow water. Note: Boca Chica is lively and somewhat commercial — it is not a secluded paradise, but it is fun and authentically Dominican.
Return to the Zona Colonial for a visit to Mercado Modelo — the main craft and souvenir market. Two floors of stalls sell larimar jewelry, amber necklaces, mamajuana bottles, Dominican cigars, paintings, and handcrafted items. Haggling is expected — start at 40% of the asking price and settle around 60%. The market vendors are persistent but good-natured. Budget 45-60 minutes.
Spend your final afternoon walking streets you missed: Calle Padre Billini for galleries and boutiques, Calle Arzobispo Meriño for historic churches, or simply sit in Parque Duarte with a coffee and watch the chess players, dominoes games, and street life that define daily rhythm in the Zona Colonial.
Buche Perico on Calle Sanchez — a beloved local restaurant serving traditional Dominican food with generous portions and genuinely warm service. The mofongo relleno de camarones (mofongo stuffed with shrimp) is outstanding. Main courses RD$350-800 (US$6-14). A fitting last meal in the capital.
Santo Domingo has the best food scene in the Dominican Republic. Here are additional picks beyond those mentioned in the itinerary:
Santo Domingo is a large city, but the areas you will visit as a tourist are concentrated:
Santo Domingo is remarkably affordable for a capital city. Here is what three days typically costs per person:
Three days is the sweet spot for most visitors. You can thoroughly explore the Zona Colonial, experience the food scene, enjoy the nightlife, and take a half-day trip. If you are deeply interested in museums and history, a fourth day allows you to visit the Faro a Colón (Columbus Lighthouse), the Jardín Botánico Nacional (one of the largest botanical gardens in the Caribbean), and additional museums at a relaxed pace.
Start in the Zona Colonial. Walk the cobblestone streets, visit the cathedral and the Alcázar de Colón, and eat lunch at a local comedor. Save the modern city, the Malecón, and nightlife for Day 2 when you have your bearings and energy for a late night.
The Zona Colonial is the best base. It is walkable, atmospheric, and close to the majority of restaurants and nightlife. The Gazcue neighborhood (adjacent to the Zona Colonial) is quieter and slightly cheaper. Avoid staying in the far-flung suburbs — you will spend too much time in traffic getting to the interesting parts of the city.
The Zona Colonial and tourist areas (Piantini, Gazcue, the Malecón) are generally safe during the day and evening. Standard city precautions apply: avoid flashing expensive jewelry or electronics, use Uber rather than unmarked taxis at night, and stay on well-lit streets after dark. The Zona Colonial has visible police and private security presence, especially on weekends.
This guide covers Santo Domingo. Explore more about this destination.
View DestinationOur team includes contributors who live in the Dominican Republic year-round and travel the island extensively, from Santo Domingo to remote southwest villages.